Tag Archives: europe

Switzerland and the Black Forest (8-15 June)

We left France late on the 8th June and entered Switzerland at Basel. We didn’t linger and continued through the city and into Germany and then began to look for somewhere to camp. Our plan the following day was to follow the Rhine, which forms the Swiss-German border and switch between the two countries. Our first crossing was over the barrage of the first of several hydroelectric plants along the Rhine. There are identical turbines on both the Swiss and German sides, which is unusual as the other plants have the turbines on one side or the other but share the electricity between the two countries. Our luck was in and one of the Swiss engineers was strolling around and kindly told us a bit about the plants as our German is too poor to understand the information signs. I was surprised to learn that the combined output of all 12 hydroelectric plants along the Rhine is only half the output of the nuclear station we would see later that day at Tiengen.

Returning to the Swiss side of the river we were frustrated to find the cycle path led us away from the water, and so after a few km we said goodbye to Switzerland and crossed back to Germany, where we spotted the best and most unusual gate-post adornments so far: a pair of lazily smirking creatures that appeared to be half-dragon, half-dog. Speaking of dogs, our trailer, which had already broken once and had the frame replaced in Roscoff, had continued to wag like an unruly Labrador. In frustration we’d arranged, whilst still in France, to have a complete new one sent ahead to Donaueschingen Post Office for us to pick up on arrival on 10th June. This was not a moment too soon as the constant wagging eventually broke the replacement frame just outside the town of Bad Sackingen. We emptied all our kit from the trailer panniers and hung it all off the bike and limped on to Tiengen, in the foothills of the Black Forest. In light of our troubles, and because we were under the impression that the new trailer would arrive in Donaueschingen on the 10th, we cut short our Rhine journey and instead of going to see the Schaffhausen Falls we headed straight up through the Black Forest to Donaueschingen. Annoyingly, when we got to Donaueschingen the trailer wasn’t there, nor did it arrive the following day (Saturday). The post office was closed on Sunday, and also on Monday which turned out to be a bank holiday, so, on Tuesday afternoon, after several nights in a rather expensive campsite and two fruitless visits to the post office that day alone, we were not best pleased to learn that the parcel had arrived in Donaueschingen that morning but had then, for some reason, been returned to sender. Several frustrated phone calls later, by both Keith and a helpful lady in the post office, and we were told that the parcel ‘might’ arrive the next day (15th June)…if not then it will have to go all the way back to where it started in Poland before being re-sent to us. If that is the case then we’ll carry on as best we can and make arrangements for it to be sent ahead to a campsite rather than a post office, but we’ll need to get an idea of how long the redirection might take so we can work out where we’re likely to have got to. Looking on the bright side, there was a festival at the local Furstenberg brewery so we spent Saturday drinking beer, eating sausages and listening to wind bands in the afternoon and then a highly entertaining outfit in the evening who covered everything from Neil Diamond to Bob Marley via Tight Fit, Boney M, Cyndi Lauper and the Beach Boys. We also caught up with labelling our photos and writing this blog, and enjoying the company of a diverse and interesting bunch at the campsite. Herman from Bavaria and Al from Australia have been excellent company, and today we were delighted when Stephanie and Fabrice, who we met in Digoin, rolled into camp.

The Loire Part One 18-27 May 2011

Following a cycle-route can either be a navigational joy or a frustrating exercise in map reading to discern where the hell you missed the last sign and where you might be now. For the most part the Loire route signage has been fairly reliable. The route doesn’t always match with that denoted on our set of maps, but I think that’s a result of the route developing over the years. Mind you, the accuracy of the map is sometimes rather questionable as a couple of bridges have sprung up, and windmills, campsites and chateaux don’t appear to be exactly where the map would have you believe, and a lot of the minor roads are missing despite it being a 1:100,000. That said, we’ve had very few problems and generally cruise along easily following signage and relating it to the map.

View of the Loire at Champtoceaux

The Loire is a wide, sandy-shored river with something of a split personality. In the summer water levels are so low that stone embankments have been built out to push what remains of the river into a single navigable channel. In the winter, the river floods vast areas of meadow and a lot of the veloroute has been following roads up on top of the miles of dykes that run alongside the river.

As well as the expected chateaux and vineyards, the Loire threw up some nice little surprises for us. As we tootled along a quiet lane on one of the Loire’s islands we came across a cafe and museum dedicated to Lenin. Intrigued we stopped and went in to see a room absolutely packed with the proprietor’s personal collection – the result of a lifelong passion for Russia and Communism. She told us how her father had been a communist and when she was 18, in the early 70’s, she drove her 2CV to Moscow, and remains a communist herself today. We drank strong Russian beer in the shady bar and decided it was a gem of a find on a hot afternoon. The first chateau we visited was at Angers, where we spent the morning exploring the impressive mediaeval castle, which houses a beautiful (and beautifully preserved) 14th C tapestry. We also learned that wine-growers often place a rose bush at the end of a row of vines as the rose is more susceptible to disease so they can have early warning of impending problems and treat the vines before they’re showing any symptoms. That evening, we back-tracked 20km to the Lenin Cafe and joined the locals listening to a Russian singer from the Urals, and then camped in the field behind the cafe.

Lenin Cafe

Heading east again, we re-passed Angers and pedalled towards Saumur, resisting the temptation to visit more chateaux (just yet), but succumbing to a spot of wine tasting…on more than one occasion. We also marvelled at the troglodyte villages where the local tufa limestone has been quarried out and dwellings are built half of tufa bricks and half simply burrowed into the cliff-side. These buildings range from quite humble sheds to some quite large and expensive looking homes.

Traditional Loie boats

We’ve had a fair run of 90+km days recently and this evening (Friday 27th May) are in Bonny-sur-Loire and looking forward to an easy day tomorrow pottering round the market in the morning and doing a spot more wine-tasting in the afternoon. We’re all chateauxed out for now (having been inside mediaeval Angers and extraordinary river-bridging Chenonceau, and either cycled or walked around the outside of innumerable others, including the ‘sleeping beauty’ Chateau d’Usse, the grandiose and 200+ chimneyed Chateau du Chambord).

Chenonceau Chateau

Life on the bike gives you plenty of time to think as the pedals turn and the scenery glides by. Sadly we haven’t found anything very profound to ponder on, but have enjoyed trying to improve our agricultural knowledge by playing ‘guess the crop or farming practice’. Now all we need to do is remember to look up the answers when we next get a decent wifi session.

A personal amusement of mine has been to note the changing tastes in gatepost adornments. This particular hobby started in Ireland where I observed a partiality for ostentatious concrete eagles, sometimes painted gold, guarding the gateposts of the most modest little bungalows. Horses’ heads and rampant lions were also frequently spotted, but my personal favourite from the Emerald Isle was a pair of decapitated Great Danes. Eagles have also proved popular in France (but usually at the entrance to a rather more grandiose dwelling than a bungalow) and my favourite French gateposts to date have been a pair of fat, comfortable-looking, painted stone hens nesting on the top of farmyard gateposts.